The High-Altitude Highway to Salida: A Journey of Discovery and Perseverance
As I sit here at the Butterfly House hostel in Salida, Colorado, I can't help but reflect on the incredible journey I've had since my last update. I've hiked through the San Juans, climbed my first 14er, and covered nearly one-third of the way to Canada, all while enjoying the breathtaking views and challenging terrain that make this trail so unique. But it's not just the physical demands of the trail that make this experience so special; it's the people I've met along the way, the moments of connection and camaraderie that have made this journey truly unforgettable.
One of the most striking aspects of this stretch of trail is the continuous elevation gain. Every day, we climbed over 5,000 feet, which was physically exhausting but yielded some of the best views I've ever seen. The defining feature of this stretch was the knife's edge traverse, a half-mile stretch of steep, continuous elevation gain that required all of our focus and determination. It was a challenging and intimidating experience, but the sense of accomplishment that came with making it safely across was truly rewarding.
As I continued on the trail, I struggled with elevation sickness, feeling weak and feeble while climbing between 11,000 and 13,000 feet. I also experienced gastrointestinal problems that I believe were hypoxic in nature. Despite these challenges, I was determined to keep going, and I was rewarded with some incredible moments, like seeing my first moose getting rained on out in the marshlands.
One of the most memorable moments of my journey was meeting Steph, a good friend of mine from Wisconsin, at Spring Creek Pass. She swung by to provide some trail magic, shuttling us around and fulfilling our customer soda order to the trailhead. It was a much-needed boost of energy and a reminder of the kindness and generosity of the trail community.
After a week of challenging hiking, we finally arrived at Lake City, where we got an AirBnB, resupplied, and checked out the town and a nearby park. The restaurant we went to, The Cannibal Grill and Packer Saloon, was named for Alferd Packer, a wilderness guide who ate his prospector cohorts to survive a blizzard in 1864. While I was initially hesitant, the food was great, and I was glad to have shared it with my fellow hikers.
One of the most exciting moments of my journey was climbing San Luis Peak, my first 14er. I woke up at 3:00 AM to make sure I reached the top before sunrise, and the experience was truly awe-inspiring. The eastern sky gradually blossomed with faint, rosy light as I watched the altimeter on my watch tick slowly upward. At the summit, I wrapped myself in my sleeping bag to keep warm as I watched the new day flash into being.
After San Luis Peak, the elevation dropped down to 10,000 feet, where we hiked around for the next couple of days. The trail was well-maintained, with wide paths, free of large rocks, and decent switchbacks. I was particularly impressed by the stellar trail magic we received from Scott, Carine, and their dog Ace, who came all the way from Omaha to set up a tent where they served up snacks, refreshing drinks, hot chili, and great conversation.
As I arrived at the highway at 7:00 PM, I decided to take a zero at the Butterfly House. It felt like a homey and welcoming place, reminding me of the hostels I stayed at on the Appalachian Trail. I cooked up a big batch of beef stroganoff, soaked my feet in the hot tub, and relaxed most of the day away.
Looking ahead, I'm excited to head north toward the Collegiate Peaks, Twin Lakes, and Leadville. This area includes the highest concentration of 14ers on trail, and I'm eager to take on the challenge. I know that the views will be incredible, and I'm looking forward to the rigorous hiking that lies ahead.
In conclusion, the High-Altitude Highway to Salida has been an incredible journey of discovery and perseverance. It's a trail that demands respect and determination, but the rewards are truly worth it. As I continue on my journey, I'm grateful for the people I've met along the way, the moments of connection and camaraderie that have made this experience so special. And I'm eager to see what challenges and rewards lie ahead on the trail.
